Deep in the côte chalonnaise, montagny is an appellation with a difference. It dedicates itself entirely to the production of white wine – all chardonnay. Two thirds of the vineyards have the prestigious premier cru classification – an extremely high proportion of high quality vineyards. ‘les milliers’ is one of these premier crus, made by caves de buxy. They’re a name to note, known as an excellent, quality conscious producer – and because they’re a cooperative with access to grapes from a variety of top notch growers, it’s excellent value for money. It’s fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks to preserve the really pure, ripe fruit flavours. Peach. Pear. Honey. It’s a really delicious glassful, with a nicely rich texture that’s still fresh. Perfect with cold ham.